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E92026
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西裝布料的質感構成意象之研究
The Constitution of the Texture Image of Coat Fabrics
1.莊明振
1.Ming-chuen Chuang
1.國立交通大學應用藝術研究所
1.Institute of Applied Arts, National Chiao Tung University
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1.國立交通大學應用藝術研究所
1.Institute of Applied Arts, National Chiao Tung University
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1.行政院國家科學委員會
1.National Science Council
A.14 計畫執行期間(起):2003-08-01
A.14 計畫執行期間(訖):2004-07-31
2003-11-012003-11-302004-02-012004-04-302004-05-012004-05-31
A.16 收到日期:2004-11-04
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C.2 聯絡日期:2004-11-08
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1.國立交通大學應用藝術研究所
1.Institute of Applied Arts, National Chiao Tung University
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C.7 資料公開日期:2006-08-01
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1.MDS法
2.SD法
3.外套
4.西裝
5.服裝設計
6.流行
7.感性工學
8.質感
1.Fabric of Coat
2.Fashion
3.Fashion Design
4.Kansei Engineering
5.Perceived Image
6.Tailor
7.Texture
 服裝最神秘的層面之一即是流行(fashion)本質;服裝也是社會地位的表徵,商界老闆們所穿的西裝與勞工們的藍色牛仔工作服,明顯地區分不同社會階 層(H. Carr, 1999)。在服裝設計、製程與產銷體系中,西裝外套在服裝意象的風格構成上,是具有重要的決定性之服裝品項之一。而相同品項的西裝外套,其外觀風格意象 可能因採用不同的布料,往往產生各種相異其趣的穿著感知,亦予人不同的觀感意象。西裝外套所運用的各種布料,除了複雜的物理構成外,其質感精確的掌握使 用,更是服裝設計上不可忽略的要因。

因此,我們先將近五年所流行的西裝外觀形式,收集圖像資料作分析與歸納出西裝的基本模型,並廣泛收集目前服裝業界,西裝外套常採用的各種布料樣本,進 行質感的物理性與心理感知的比較研究,嘗試將消費者與設計者之間,對於各種布料質感意象所詮釋的基本認知,進行充分瞭解後,再進而萃取出兩者間所具共同認 知的各種布料質感構成意象,將其所包含的質感構成元素:纖維、織法、色彩等物性構成因素,及知覺的視觸覺與心理感覺等,有關人們的感知構因,進行相關基礎 研究,以作為服裝設計實務的應用參考原則。

本研究主要探討西裝外套的布料質感構成意象之認知。首先,將西裝外套外觀意象做質化的分析比較研究,歸納出消費者與設計者的共同基本認知的西裝模型樣 本;同時收集目前常用的外套布料樣本,經專家訪談及相關文獻,整理出布料構成的各種纖維、織法與色彩等物理特徵表(morphological chart);再進行布料質感構成的量測與分析等量化研究。本研究運用系統化調查方法與感性工學方法:以SD法、MDS法等研究方法,針對布料質感構成要 素,進行系統化研究。經因子分析結果,獲得六個布料質感意象構成因子,再進一步以迴歸分析找出質感構成的物理特徵構成元素,同時以MDS法分析找出布料質 感意象的認知空間,建構出西裝外套的質感運用的設計原則。

The most mystic aspect of costume is fashion. Costume is sometimes dressed to symbolize the social status. The formal suits on businessmen are distinctively discriminated from blue jeans on workers, with respect to social class. (Carr, 1999) In fashion design, the perceived image of cloth is the most important consideration. Besides the style of cloth, the fabric texture of the cloth is also the critical factor to affect the perceived image. Especially, in respect of man\'s coat, the style variation in which is rather small, the fabric texture almost determinates the perceived image. In other words, two coats with same style of will be perceived with different images, if they are made of different fabrics. Conclusively, fabric texture and its perceived image are very important factors in fashion design. However, so far there is no systematical study on this topic.

Thus, in this study, by implement of systematic survey as well method of kansei engineering, we will try to explore the constitution of texture image of coat fabric. Firstly, we will collect various styles of coat in the recent five years and to conclude a prototype of coat from them. Then, we will widely collect various coat fabrics. Through the comprehensive analysis on these fabrics, with the assistance of experts\' advice and literature review, we expect to figure out the critical features in constituting the fabrics and the possible levels in each feature. A morphological chart for the selected testing fabric samples will be constructed, accordingly. Subjects will be recruited to pair-wisely compare the perceived difference among testing samples and to make the SD evaluation to each of testing fabrics on a set of screened scale. Through the factor analysis, MDS analysis, conjoint analysis and neural network simulation, we expect to understand the constitution of texture image of coat fabric based on the derived image space. The relationship between the perceived image and the texture features can be deducted. From these results, guidelines of designing coat fabric can be concluded.

D.16 完成檢誤日期:2005-10-19
D.17 預定釋出日期:2006-08-01
D.18 初次釋出日期:2006-08-01
D.19_1 最新版釋出日期:2006-08-01
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10.6141/TW-SRDA-E92026-1
http://efenci.srda.sinica.edu.tw/webview/index.jsp?object=http://efenci.srda.sinica.edu.tw:80/obj/fStudy/E92026
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